Stein’s pick: The Bowery steak at the just opened Bowery Meat Company takes two of the most cliché words on New York menus these days and makes it new. Josh Capon hornswoggled Pat LaFrieda to give him only the deckles—the second smaller portion of a ribeye—which Mr. Capon rolls up and then broils. Deckles have long suffered from overcooking when attached to a rib eye but here the cut finally gets its due. Mr. Capon has innovated something I thought was beyond innovation.
Read more at http://observer.com/2014/12/stein-ozersky-best-and-worst-2014/#ixzz3LcWtSSOf